Thursday, October 22, 2015

Exploring Santa Maria Novella

We are in a neighborhood called Santa Maria Novella -- an interesting mixture of old and new. It runs from Florence's main train station to the river, and is anchored by a basilica that has been there since the 11th century.

We walked down to the river ... this time the section between Ponte Santa Trinita and Ponte alla Carraia.  Santa Trinita is three elliptical arches - the first of their kind ever used in bridge construction.  Florentines are so proud of the design of their bridges, that, when this one was bombed in WWII, they fished the pieces out of the river and rebuilt it using the original stone.













We stopped to see the Chiesa d'Ognissante, a 13th century church built as part of a Benedictine monastery. What makes this interesting is its patrons... the Vespucci family.  The artist Botticelli is buried here, supposedly so he could be near the woman he loved.  (He fell in love with Simonetta Vespucci, but she was married.  He had to settle for using her as the inspiration for his famous painting Spring.)











Heading north again, we arrived at Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, the biggest patch of green grass we have seen in the historic city center.  The guidebook indicates that the area around the piazza has become "gentrified" -- all we saw were the things catering to tourists (carriage rides, bicycle rentals, a ticket office, and the ever-present north African vendors selling selfie sticks and other trinkets.)



Contrast the photo with this whimsical painting we saw.

The basilica is huge, and filled with art covering several centuries.  This pulpit was designed by Brunelleschi and built between 1443-48.  The ceiling of its cover has a dove flying skyward.









There is a painted crucifix over the main altar that picks up light coming in from the windows.  It was created around 1290.


The high altar includes a replica of the Duomo.

Behind the altar are large, floor to-ceiling murals on the sides and a three-part stained glass window.


a small, but well-preserved fresco
Around the church are small chapels, dedicated to the families who commissioned the art.  Some of the artworks were frescoes, some oils on wood, some carvings, some cabinetry.... it is quite a collection!
















The church is part of a Dominican monastery, and the museums take you through the cloisters, the gardens, the crypts, and to the refectory where they are displaying some of the frescoes that are being restored. 

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