Tuesday, October 24, 2017

Ponta Delgads, Azores

Leaving Copenhagen on Sunday, we went north, around the Jutland Peninsula, then angled southwest across the North Sea.  Listening to the Captain’s noontime navigation report we found out that we would be in the English Channel near the Cliffs of Dover in the pre-dawn hours Monday.  (Too bad, because we would have had a good look from our starboard balcony.)  We got into some pretty good swells, through the channel – perhaps some of the winds left over from ex-hurricane Ophelia hitting the UK.  I checked once during the night, and could see lights on the coast, but no sign of the cliffs.
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We got into several little squalls – the captain kept assuring us it would get better as we got farther south.  Being on the 14th deck, we could feel more of the motion than on previous cruises. 

It got pretty bad for a while – the ship had to secure the swimming pools on deck 15, the wave action was too strong.  There were people out trying to take pictures as the waves would crash against the back of the pool.  We noticed there were sea sickness bags at strategic locations around the ship.

It finally got better as we neared the Azores.  We ventured out on the balcony. 

On Friday we reached Ponta Delgada.  I awakened around 6 and checked outside.  It was so foggy that I thought we would not see much.  When we docked around 7, I looked out and was surprised to see sunshine.  Looking off to the east, you can still see the fog bank that we had come through as we approached the island. 

Ponta Delgada is on the south side of the island.  They have built a massive cruise terminal and marina.  There are a number of shops and restaurants built into the pier and surrounds.  
















On one side was a large pool complex.  It had been drained, but there were swimmers doing their morning swim around the buoys in the marina.  (It’s much like the Dolphin Club which swims at Aquatic Park in San Francisco.)








The port terminal is like a pyramid rising up towards the ships.  Runners were taking advantage of the steps.










We started to explore the town a bit.  Armed with a good map supplied by the tourist agency as we entered the terminal, we headed down the embarcadero into town.  The first thing we saw was the town gates.

Behind the gates was St. Sebastian’s church. Unlike some of the churches we had seen elsewhere, this was a simple parish church.  The outside was white stucco contrasted by the black lava rock.  Ponta Delgada sits between two volcanic caldera… the island is known for its thermal baths, pineapple plantations, the only tea plantation in Europe, and lots and lots of cows (from which they make lots and lots of cheese).











We spotted what looked like a lighthouse on the main street.  Turns out it was the headquarters of their navy.


We found our way along the waterfront to Forte de Sao Bras – a fortress that originally protected the harbor.  It is still an active army post, but they have turned it into a military history museum.  There were a few pieces from early wars, but the majority was 20th century items, including their war with Angola.  It was fun to explore.

outside the fort walls

the ship from one of the cannon ports

guard tower

flag of Zona Militar dos Acores

A Mercedes Unimog (1958-79)

inside the walls

rocket launcher
Outside, on the wall of the fortress was a monument to “Marineheiros Portugueses” (the mariners) of the Grande Guerra (World War I).



With the construction of a new port, the fortress is actually land locked.  We had seen a freighter being unloaded at the pier out board of us, and those trucks rumbled past the fort.  Industrial buildings had been constructed outside of what had been the limits of the town when the fort was constructed.






Ironically, just across the street from the fort is a convent and church.

We headed back into town, past Praca (Plaza) Vasco de Gama.  Unlike the statue of the explorer Cabral located near the town gate, we could find no statue of de Gama.  

We went to the Fish Market Restaurant for lunch.  We had grilled swordfish and our friends had clams, calamari and shrimp.  We were almost finished when eight officers off the ship dropped in.  One of the ship’s restaurant managers is Portuguese, and he was taking his team to lunch.  We knew we had picked the right restaurant!  We were kidding him did he come to get some fresh fish for the restaurants on board or just to enjoy… he, of course, said this was just to enjoy.










We planned a little sail away party in our suite as the ship left at 5. 



We could really get a good look at how they have carved out fields from the sides of the volcanoes… terraces seemed to go as far as we could see.










On the west side of the island, we could see high cliffs. 


We’ve maintained a southwesterly course since then.  The weather has been getting a bit better.
As I write this on Monday, they finally opened the Haven and spa pools yesterday, but the main pool on deck 15 is still roped off.  We will be in Bermuda on Wednesday and Thursday.

We are finally getting some use out of our balcony!



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