Ponta Delgads, Azores

Leaving Copenhagen on Sunday, we went north, around the Jutland Peninsula, then angled southwest across the North Sea.  Listening to the Captain’s noontime navigation report we found out that we would be in the English Channel near the Cliffs of Dover in the pre-dawn hours Monday.  (Too bad, because we would have had a good look from our starboard balcony.)  We got into some pretty good swells, through the channel – perhaps some of the winds left over from ex-hurricane Ophelia hitting the UK.  I checked once during the night, and could see lights on the coast, but no sign of the cliffs.

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We got into several little squalls – the captain kept assuring us it would get better as we got farther south.  Being on the 14^th deck, we could feel more of the motion than on previous cruises. 

It got pretty bad for a while – the ship had to secure the swimming pools on deck 15, the wave action was too strong.  There were people out trying to take pictures as the waves would crash against the back of the pool.  We noticed there were sea sickness bags at strategic locations around the ship.

It finally got better as we neared the Azores.  We ventured out on the balcony. 

On Friday we reached Ponta Delgada.  I awakened around 6 and checked outside.  It was so foggy that I thought we would not see much.  When we docked around 7, I looked out and was surprised to see sunshine.  Looking off to the east, you can still see the fog bank that we had come through as we approached the island. 

Ponta Delgada is on the south side of the island.  They have built a massive cruise terminal and marina.  There are a number of shops and restaurants built into the pier and surrounds.  

On one side was a large pool complex.  It had been drained, but there were swimmers doing their morning swim around the buoys in the marina.  (It’s much like the Dolphin Club which swims at Aquatic Park in San Francisco.)

The port terminal is like a pyramid rising up towards the ships.  Runners were taking advantage of the steps.

We started to explore the town a bit.  Armed with a good map supplied by the tourist agency as we entered the terminal, we headed down the embarcadero into town.  The first thing we saw was the town gates.

Behind the gates was St. Sebastian’s church. Unlike some of the churches we had seen elsewhere, this was a simple parish church.  The outside was white stucco contrasted by the black lava rock.  Ponta Delgada sits between two volcanic caldera… the island is known for its thermal baths, pineapple plantations, the only tea plantation in Europe, and lots and lots of cows (from which they make lots and lots of cheese).

We spotted what looked like a lighthouse on the main street.  Turns out it was the headquarters of their navy.

We found our way along the waterfront to Forte de Sao Bras – a fortress that originally protected the harbor.  It is still an active army post, but they have turned it into a military history museum.  There were a few pieces from early wars, but the majority was 20^th century items, including their war with Angola.  It was fun to explore.

outside the fort walls

the ship from one of the cannon ports

guard tower

flag of Zona Militar dos Acores

A Mercedes Unimog (1958-79)

inside the walls

rocket launcher

Outside, on the wall of the fortress was a monument to “Marineheiros Portugueses” (the mariners) of the Grande Guerra (World War I).

With the construction of a new port, the fortress is actually land locked.  We had seen a freighter being unloaded at the pier out board of us, and those trucks rumbled past the fort.  Industrial buildings had been constructed outside of what had been the limits of the town when the fort was constructed.

Ironically, just across the street from the fort is a convent and church.

We headed back into town, past Praca (Plaza) Vasco de Gama.  Unlike the statue of the explorer Cabral located near the town gate, we could find no statue of de Gama.  

We went to the Fish Market Restaurant for lunch.  We had grilled swordfish and our friends had clams, calamari and shrimp.  We were almost finished when eight officers off the ship dropped in.  One of the ship’s restaurant managers is Portuguese, and he was taking his team to lunch.  We knew we had picked the right restaurant!  We were kidding him did he come to get some fresh fish for the restaurants on board or just to enjoy… he, of course, said this was just to enjoy.

We planned a little sail away party in our suite as the ship left at 5. 

We could really get a good look at how they have carved out fields from the sides of the volcanoes… terraces seemed to go as far as we could see.

On the west side of the island, we could see high cliffs. 

We’ve maintained a southwesterly course since then.  The weather has been getting a bit better.

As I write this on Monday, they finally opened the Haven and spa pools yesterday, but the main pool on deck 15 is still roped off.  We will be in Bermuda on Wednesday and Thursday.

We are finally getting some use out of our balcony!

Touring Copenhagen

We had had four Danish fishermen stay with us in Alaska two years ago.  We had stayed in touch with Christian Jensen, a major in the Air Force, and he had arranged a tour of Copenhagen for us.  We met Chris, his wife Nina, and Jurgen near the train station and started our adventure.

The first stop was the sailor’s barracks. These were  originally built to house Danish Navy sailors, but now are being renovated as apartments. 

We went to the Kastellet– a star-shaped fort that was built originally to protect the city from the sea and the north flank.   

King's Gate

As we came into the fortress via the King’s Gate, Jurgen pulled out a picture of when he was stationed there in the Army in 1972.  Chris had arranged a guide for us.  He took us places that were not usually open to the public – like into the powder magazine, the old barracks, the church, and a prison for political prisoners.

Chris, Nina & Jurgen wait for the guide

down the path to the Queen's Magazine

The Queen’s Magazine was one of only two magazines inside the fort.  (They had had an explosion, and after that put the rest outside the fortified walls.)  The displays were of a typical black powder storage, but also of the prison the building later became.

 

powder magazine

how the prisoners lived

The barracks were set up so that 36 soldiers lived in each section… the ones on the ground and first floors had heat from the fireplaces, those on the second floor did not.. They could even have their families in the barracks with them

the well

Each barracks had a well.  This is the only one still available.

At the north end of the parade ground was a chapel, that is still an active church.  What was unique about this was they built a prison along the back wall.  

There were portals so the prisoners could hear the service.  (It was kind of like how the prisoners at Alcatraz could see the city so close – but it was outside their reach.)

to the left, cells -- to the right, the church

We went up on top the walls.  You can see how they reached the barracks from the walls.  A while back there was a series of downpours that ended up filling the fortress with water up to the first floor.

Out behind the chapel/prison is one of  Copenhagen’s four surviving windmills.  The have a cadre of volunteers who help maintain it and run it.  There are even bakeries in town which sell  the bread from this mill. 

the lagoon behind the fortress

We walked down the waterfront past the Maersk Line headquarters.  Known for its sky blue ships, it seemed appropriate that the building had blue windows.  

Maersk’s Foundation gave the city the seed money to build an opera house right on the waterfront… the chairman of Maersk can look across the bay at it. 

the Royal Opera House

Marble Church (dome) and the Royal Palace

Next stop was the Royal Palace.  We were in the square photographing the Marble Church and other buildings when a chime sounded.  With that, the guards in all the posts came to attention, and started a ritualistic walk-around.  While these look a little like the guards at Buckingham Palace, they don’t have the stone-faced discipline… I even saw one of the gals give a wave to one of the children she passed.

Our next stop was Nyshavn (New Haven) for lunch.  This is an area of old warehouses that has become a hip location for restaurants, hotels, and things catering to the tourists.  (Fisherman's Wharf on steroids..)  We had typical smorrebord open-faced sandwiches. 

We then boarded a canal boat for a tour of the harbor. 

the tour boats

We saw the new theater.  Behind this is a large open space that can be used for events.  

I particularly liked the mobile at one end.

There was a pier area that has become a gathering place for food trucks and small business in what used to be what the guide described as a paper building that was soon going to be torn down.  Turns out it was a warehouse for newsprint… the city is replacing it as part of their urban renewal program.

the paper building

a little art work in front of the paper building

We went right past the Opera House.  One interesting fact is that one of the extreme games TV companies has gotten permission to use the building for an event.  Riders jump off the roof!!

garbage power

Right behind there is a very large power plant that was designed to burn garbage as its primary fuel.  The city didn’t have enough garbage, so they had to import British garbage.  The guide also said that this plant uses some of the energy to create snow.  Not exactly sure why.

We saw some of the historic ships and buildings of the Copenhagen Maritime Museum.

The naval station would raise the flag at dawn and fire a cannon.  The king liked to sleep, so he said it would be at 8 am instead of dawn.

Then it was across the bay to see the statue of the Little Mermaid.  Or, more appropriately, see all the crowds around the statue. 

As we came along the waterfront again, we got a good look at the Royal Palace from the sea.  The royal yacht wasn’t there, but a pretty good sized yacht was along that quay.

We went on into a series of other canals.  Much like Amsterdam, the boats are designed to just fit under the bridges.  We saw the parliament building, interesting church spires, and many, many boats.

you can walk up this church spire

the pedestrian bridge "mirrors" the masts of tall ships

across from the bridge, a sailing ship

looking through the building behind the sailing ship

historical ship

rowers pass by the ship

the Parliament Building

We got off the tour boar and headed into the main shopping area of Copenhagen.  As we were leaving, you could see this round tower.  Instead of steps, this has a spiral ramp.  Nina said she had climbed it in her youth!

The Round Tower

After all this, Chris and Nina took us home with them for a traditional dinner.  They live about 45 minutes west of Copenhagen in a little farm town called Knabstrup.  We got to meet their 3 sons and their rescued hunting dog, a pointer named Kasmir. 

It was a long day, but it was a great one!